WHY ON EARTH SHOULD I GO TO KIEV?
A KIEV, UKRAINE TRAVEL GUIDE (2019)
Why now?
This is the question I got asked a lot before going to Ukraine, and even when I talk about the experience today, the response is generally “That’s an… interesting vacation choice.”
There are a lot of things to do in Kiev – amazing restaurants, unique bars, and some of the best sightseeing in Eastern Europe can all be found in and around the city. Ukraine is also home to seven UNESCO World Heritage sites, including Kiev’s Saint Sophia cathedral.
Why, then, do people have such a strong reaction to Ukraine travel? Well, some things tend to linger in the public consciousness.
Don’t get me wrong–I loved Kiev and want to return as soon as possible, but before you go, you need to understand the basics about both the country and Kiev specifically.
Fighting has calmed slightly, but Eastern Ukraine is still a very rough place, and while Kiev doesn’t have the lion’s share of issues, it still faces corruption and growing far-right extremism.
In October of 2017, nationalists took to the streets in celebration of what they called a “March to the Glory of Heroes.” The march commemorated the anniversary of the Ukrainian Insurgent Army’s founding. Participants praised nationalist war criminals like Stepan Bandera and made xenophobic speeches to anyone who would listen.
While I was there, a Kiev-based friend posted photos of people wearing Waffen SS shirts handing out flyers. Kiev is safer than the days when riot police flooded Independence Square, but visiting the city does require having an awareness of your surroundings.
WELCOME TO I AM HERE TOO
Hi there. My name is Braden. Here I am squatting in front of a Ukrainian tank looking serious. Isn’t that fun.
If you enjoyed my Kyiv travel tips, check out the other guides on the site, or click here to find out more about me.
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SO, AGAIN I ASK,
WHY ON EARTH SHOULD I GO TO KIEV?
Kiev has problems, but as you talk to more people in the city, you’ll soon realize that defining Kiev by its conflicts provides an unforgivably incomplete picture.
The people of Kiev greeted us with extreme kindness and open arms, showing us, among other things, their thriving art scene, filled with passionate young people making truly groundbreaking work.
Additionally, the nightlife is unlike anywhere else in the world, but more on all this later.
You’ve convinced me. So where should I go?
A great question! First, you look hungry. Let’s get you something to eat.
FOOD: LYUBIMY DYADYA (LOVELY UNCLE) Pankivska St 20, Kyiv, Ukraine, 01033 (Map it on Google Maps)
I will go out on a limb and say that Lovely Uncle is the best restaurant in Kiev. The food is incredible, the service is great, and the prices are cheap by American/Euro standards and fair by Kiev standards.
The restaurant is also home to several live birds (in cages, don’t worry), so don’t be surprised if you hear the twitter of finches as you enjoy one of the greatest brunches of your life.
In short, Lovely Uncle is the best place to get filled up before your long day in Kiev.
ATTRACTION: THE MOTHERLAND MONUMENT Zapecherna St, Kyiv, Ukraine, 02000 (Map it on Google Maps)
A controversial piece due to the hammer and sickle emblazoned on its shield, the Motherland Monument is a powerful and striking sculpture.
Even if you don’t care for its style (fair; the Soviet approach takes some getting used to), its impressiveness is difficult to deny, and its position overlooking the city contributes to the overall sense of wonder and insignificance one gets from observing it.
The park surrounding the monument is nice as well, though I’ve heard the museum by the monument isn’t the best.
FOOD: Банка
Following your trip to the Motherland Monument, you might want to get a coffee and something to eat at Банка.
This is a chain, but its quality can’t be beat. Their gimmick is that everything is served in jars. Seriously: everything is served in a god damn jar. Beer? Jar. Soup? Shorter, fatter jar. Even your check comes in its own adorable little jar.
If you don’t make it here until later, that’s fine too; they open at noon as a cafe/restaurant and turn into an active bar at night.
ATTRACTION: KHRESHCHATYK STREET Khreschatyk St, Kyiv, Ukraine 02000 (Map it on Google Maps)
Before you head to your next destination, I would suggest walking down Khreschatyk St, one of the main streets in Kiev.
It is dotted with monuments, and its squares are home to many (we’ll say “historically interesting but sometimes terrifying and often controversial”) events.
While we were there, the street was lined with tanks– apparently we arrived just after the celebration of Ukrainian Independence Day. It was odd to see children playing on Army tanks, but I suppose it’s no different from the air shows I went to as a kid. At least with tanks they let you go inside.
ATTRACTION: SAINT SOPHIA’S CATHEDRAL Volodymyrska St, 24, Kyiv, Ukraine, 01001 (Map on Google Maps)
Some people think all churches look the same, and I fear I am part of that crowd.
St. Sophia’s Cathedral, I’m excited to tell you, breaks that trend. The intricate detailing on the building is truly stunning, and the yellows, light blues, and pinks of the cathedral and the surrounding area stand in stark contrast to the grey that pervades much of Kiev.
Additionally, there is another monument just outside of the cathedral for you to see, and the area is nice to walk around in.
FOOD: GOGI Lva Tolstoho St, 13, Kyiv, Ukraine, 01034 (Map it on Google Maps)
For dinner, I recommend Georgian food. Kiev has a lot of Georgian food, but the place at the top of my list is Хінкальня Gogi, or, if you’re American like me, simply “Gogi.” The food is uh-MAZ-ing and the cocktails can’t be beat.
Order the Khinkali (dumplings); I ordered six, ate them all in a minute, then immediately wished I ordered about 28 more.
DESSERT: MILK BAR Khreschatyk St, Kyiv, Ukraine 02000 (Map it on Google Maps)
If you’re not absolutely STUFFED (or even if you are, I guess) make your way over to Milk Bar. It’s a little pricey for Kiev, but that fact notwithstanding, Milk Bar is great, featuring a wide selection of cakes, ice cream, and cocktails. We got cake, and even though we were too full to eat it all, the taste was divine.
BAR: AM BAR Velyka Vasylkivska St, 8А, Kyiv, Ukraine, 02000 (Map it on Google Maps)
My favorite bar we visited was AM Bar, an odd little spot tucked just off of a Velyka Vasylkivska St.
Although it is technically open in winter, I would call this more of a summer bar; the bar itself is small, and the majority of the activity happens at the tables and faux-grass areas just outside. We drank some great scotch (or so a friend assured me. To me, it tasted like death, but hey, what do I know).
NIGHTLIFE: CLOSER Nyzhnoiurkivska St, 31, Kyiv, Ukraine, 02000 (Map it on Google Maps)
If you’re looking to party, well, you’re in luck. Kiev is quickly becoming one of the “to-be” places to experience electronic music. Electronic Beats even went so far as to dub Kiev “the New Capital Of Rave.” Closer embodies Kiev’s rave aesthetic, hosting a mix of local DJs and imports from around Europe and beyond. If you’re interested in raving, you should also check out Схема, a force to be reckoned with in the world of Ukrainian techno.
NIGHTLIFE: RIVER PORT Nyzhnii Val, 67, Kyiv, Ukraine, 04070 (Map it on Google Maps)
Once you find this club, tucked behind what appears to be a construction site, you’re sure to have a good time. Consistently bringing in top quality DJs, this club’s placement on the water makes dancing on its floor a one-of-a-kind affair.
WHAT SHOULD I DO TO PREPARE FOR KIEV?
LEARN TO READ CYRILLIC
I know what you’re probably thinking– are you serious I don’t have time for that shit. Trust me, I thought the same thing.
Then I found this app to learn Cyrillic, which gave me a comprehensive understanding in just three hours. Trust me – I am NOT good with languages, but this takes ~3–4 hours to learn and will help IMMEASURABLY once you get there. This isn’t even a sponsored post; I just really, really like this app.
FIND A PLACE TO STAY; KNOW WHAT TO EXPECT
Most apartments in Kiev haven’t been redecorated since 1981. Every place we looked at was covered in bland, stained wallpaper, mishmashes of faded pastels that felt less “homey” and more “Scooby Doo Ghost Town.”
All appliances were old (though fully functional), and the apartments themselves were designed in a manner lacking all reason; the lightswitch for our bedroom was inaccessible if you opened the door, leading to a lot of stubbed toes in darkness. It sounds like I’m complaining, I know, but I’m really not. Every city’s “budget” accommodation is different, and this is simply the flavor of Kiev.
One thing that I should note is that the water must be boiled before it can be drank, and you need to send a message to your host reminding them to turn on the water heater before your arrival (it is common to turn off the water heater for long periods in Kiev).
PLAN A TRIP TO CHERNOBYL
Yes, that Chernobyl. One and two day tours are available, but you really only need one day in the area.
It’s disaster tourism, which some (myself included) are uncomfortable with, but it’s also one of the most unique places in the world, and a visit there provides insight into how the Soviet Union used, manipulated, and distributed information.
Before you ask, yes, it’s safe to go there, though we packed our own lunches just to be sure.
THE PRACTICAL STUFF
We flew into Kyiv International Airport and took a bus into the city. No one spoke English on any part of this journey, but it was easy enough to convey what we needed to with pointing and frantic hand gestures.
Getting around Kiev is easy. The Metro is ultra cheap and efficient, and Uber is inexpensive.
Where to stay: We stayed in an AirBNB near Taras Shevchenko National University of Kyiv, which was adequate. The neighborhood was relatively quiet, and transportation to and from our apartment was easy.
If you liked this guide, you might also like the 12 Best Restaurants in Kiev.
I hope you enjoyed this guide!
If you’re going to Sofia, support me by booking through my affiliate links: Booking.com, AirBNB.
You can also donate to my PayPal or support me on Patreon.
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