TRAVEL

LEAVE YOUR HEART IN SOFIA
A SOFIA, BULGARIA TRAVEL GUIDE (2019)

If you ask the average American for things to do in Bulgaria, their answers tend to range from “Where’s Bulgaria” to “Have you thought about visiting Spain? My nephew went last summer with his school and he said it was nice.”

I work at a high school here in Germany and am lucky enough to have storied, well-traveled people as coworkers. However, when I asked some of these colleagues for Sofia travel advice, the positivity with which they normally shared travel stories faded. The damn Bulgarians just want to weasel you out of your money!

Every Roma rumor I’ve ever heard suddenly became an accepted Bulgarian truism– they’ll throw babies at you! They’ll steal your wallet! They’ll throw a baby at you then steal your wallet!

No other destination thus far had elicited such as response. Why? How did Bulgaria get this stereotype?

Asking the few Bulgarian people I know yielded no answers, and after reading a bit of news from the country, it seemed that Bulgaria’s problems were comparable to those of other former Soviet states– government corruption, mafia activity, pickpockets, crumbling infrastructure… you know, the norm. Of course, this is just what I could glean as an outsider reading English-language news articles. To get the full story, I needed to go there.

So, one day, I did.

WELCOME TO I AM HERE TOO

Hi there. My name is Braden. Here I am taking a mirror selfie in the bathroom of Tell Me Bar in Sofia.

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Monument to the Soviet Army. The Russian government apparently still has strong opinions about how this statue is to be presented and maintained, a problem due to the frequency with which the statue is vandalized. During my visit the hands of the soldiers on the lower facade were painted yellow, evidently done the night before. One local told me he was surprised they hadn’t fixed it already out of fear of Russian retaliation.

 

FIRST

I have to say that the stereotype of Bulgarians as drunk tricksters is not true. Of course it isn’t. But knowledge of this stereotype is widespread, and many greeting me seemed to actively combat it.

People went out of their way to not only put their kindness and straightforwardness on display, but also to put down the kindness and straightforwardness of others. More than one person said “I am honest” and meant it – not merely trying to mask an ulterior motive – then went to say how the city is filled with scammers. As a taxi driver explained to me while pointing at a government building, “Everywhere are criminals, because there is our mafia.”

In some ways, the internalization of this narrative has been destructive to the Bulgarian psyche. As I’ve heard of tourism in Russia, any positive comments about the city by a tourist will have you swiftly corrected by a local. I am a lover of Eastern Europe, so it goes without saying that my standards of architectural beauty are not exactly mainstream, but giving even the slightest hint that I found the city beautiful resulted in a chorus of scoff.

The city is liked, but with a heavy asterisk; it’s ugly, it’s corrupt, it’s grand, it’s home.

HOWEVER

Scams abound. Not only scams, but small lies that can add up to big costs.

Getting a taxi from the airport, the taxi driver told me the cost of the ride to my hotel. I told him to be honest with me because the number he said then was the amount I would pay, and the price went up a couple dollars. Fine. A tourist tax.

When we arrived at the hotel, the price he gave me was almost double the original quoted amount. I eventually got him to pay our original price, but this was one of many moments where being steadfast and consistent about a quoted price saved a considerable amount of money.

The only other scams attempted on me were performed through little omissions. Like western Europe’s bread basket charges, add-ons that seem “free” at the time end up on your bill, regardless of whether or not you requested them. It’s not the end of the world as the costs are generally negligible, but if you’re inattentive, they can add up and make a dent in your daily budget.

THE QUIRKS

What makes Sofia different from other Eastern European cities?

One thing that struck me was the culture of street shopping, especially when it comes to snacks. Not a uniquely Bulgarian concept, small snack shops dot the sidewalks of most major streets in Sofia. However, Sofia stands out due to its tendency to have these shops based underground, with just a small window at ankle height through which you can buy beer, candy, cigarettes, and more.

This results in lines that look like a reverse Darwinian evolution chart as people crouch down to bark their order through small, metal grated gaps. I was told that this type of store came about after the fall of Communism; once people could own their own businesses, many wannabe business owners could only afford a basement in the city’s more densely populated areas. Given this, they improvised, and the basement store, known as a knee-shop or “klek,” was born.

Something else you’ll see when wandering the streets of Sofia are numerous coffee machines. For anywhere from a quarter to a $0.75, these machines dispense cups of piss-poor, hyper-sweetened coffee in a variety of styles. The quality is frequently shiver-inducing, and I cannot attest to the machines’ cleanliness, but if you need a near-constant caffeine buzz like I do, these machines are a godsend.

Another small but important difference is that Bulgarians nod for no and shake their heads for yes. As much of the population speaks only a limited amount of English, this is something that you will probably figure out pretty much immediately. Regardless, be prepared to do a lot of pointing to order and be very open with your diet, as you might not always get exactly what you wanted.

FOOD

First, the street food culture. Bulgarian street food is very meat-heavy, and most markets have stands offering every type of grilled meat you could imagine.

Doner kebab is also popular, often a chicken doner frequently served with french fries and pickles.

Most prevalent of all street food is, surprisingly, pizza. One slice of pizza can range from $0.50 to $1.50, rarely if ever getting higher than that. The slices are big, and though they aren’t fantastic, their low price makes them horribly addictive and I consumed several during my time in Sofia. If you are in the mood for better pizza, do not fret, as Sofia is home to several top-quality pizzerias.

⭑ Salted Cafe ul. “Bratya Miladinovi” 38, 1000 Sofia Center, Sofia, Bulgaria

Salted Cafe is trendy vegetarian restaurant and coffeehouse. The clientele is young, and the cafe occasionally hosts events. The staff speaks English and will gladly help you navigate through the menu.

⭑ RAINBOW FACTORY ул. Веслец 10, 1000 Sofia Center, Sofia, Bulgaria

This is where all of the expats hang out. Seriously, Rainbow Factory is the only place in my entire time in Sofia that I heard more English than Bulgarian. I can’t exactly decipher what that means, but the sandwiches on offer at Rainbow Factory are pretty good, and the coffee is *sound of chef kissing fingertips to indicate delight*

MADE IN HOME ul. “Angel Kanchev” 30, 1000 Sofia Center, Sofia, Bulgaria

Easily my favorite restaurant in Sofia. Made in Home creates a cozy atmosphere with delectable food plated beautifully. Staff and clientele are young – the place attracts a lot of hipsters. 

Divaka MULTIPLE LOCATIONS

Divaka is a chain with good food, fair prices, and a relaxed atmosphere. They serve both traditional Bulgarian food and basics, and with a large and varied menu, Divaka is suitable for people with any palette.

Skaptoburger ul. “Tsar Shishman” 20, 1000 Sofia Center, Sofia, Bulgaria

BIG. GOURMET. BURGERS. Skaptoburger offers delicious slabs of well-seasoned meat with an extensive range of toppings, all stacked onto a toasted bun. There *are* veggie burgers here if you’re so inclined, but come on. You’re in meat country.

ATTRACTIONS:

Socialist Art Museum

The Socialist Art Museum is one of few places in Sofia where you can find statues of Lenin, Marx, and other heroes of the Communist era. They also feature the red star that once adorned a building in Sofia’s city center, apparently once rumored to be made out of ruby (turns out it’s just glass, but hey, still cool).

There is an outdoor statue garden and an indoor art museum where one can see paintings and sculptures from the Communist time. This place is a little outside of the city, but it’s well worth the trip.

365 COMMUNIST TOUR OF SOFIA

If you want an in-depth history of Sofia under Communist rule, this is not the tour for you. However, if you’re looking for an introduction to Sofia’s history while exploring the city and seeing some places you might not have otherwise seen, the 365 Communist Tour of Sofia is a great stop. Our guide was charismatic and provided some interesting anecdotes, and many of the stops were a little more off-the-beaten-path, which I enjoyed.

The National Palace of Culture National Culture Palace, Bulevard “Bulgaria”, 1463 Ndk, Sofia, Bulgaria

The National Palace of Culture is a structurally impressive building, and hanging out in the area definitely gives you an idea of local flair and culture. Honestly, most of the fun I derived from Sofia came from just walking around and talking to people, so if that’s your thing, this city might be the perfect destination for you. I would also recommend checking Facebook and websites like programata.bg for events and activities.

DRINKING

The Bulgarians love their liquor.

Sofia’s not a party city – the populace is not as prone to getting falling-over levels of drunk as other Slavic nations – but they do enjoy imbibing when the mood is right (as it frequently is). Some locals may get you to try Rakia, a drink common to both Bulgaria and other countries in the region. Feel no obligation to do this.

⭑ Atelieto ул.Цар Самуил 50, ul. “Tsar Samuil”, 1000 Sofia Center, Sofia, Bulgaria

Atelieto is an artsy bar with a nice beer menu. They frequently hosts events and concerts; you might see hometown hero KiNK stop by for an impromptu performance.

⭑ flipflop ul. “Oborishte” 61, 1504 Sofia Center, Sofia, Bulgaria

Another artsy bar, this one in a cartoon style. The ceiling of FlipFlop‘s sitting area is plastered with images from comic books, and the walls feature characters anywhere from the Marvel franchises to Adventure Time. FlipFlop’s decor is fun, and their drinks can’t be beat. Also, they have an outdoor area in the summer months, which is great!

⭑ TELL ME BAR ul. “Ivan Vazov” 12, 1000 Sofia Center, Sofia, Bulgaria

Tell Me Bar is more of a club than a bar, throwing house and techno parties with DJs from around the world. If you want to sit off to the side and just drink, you’re welcome to do so. However, the party is always going, and the dancefloor is hot.

WHAT SHOULD I DO TO PREPARE FOR SOFIA?

LEARN TO READ CYRILLIC

Seriously, learning it is not hard. There are multiple apps that can help you in the process; this app probably helped me the most. Also, the Bulgarians invented Cyrillic, so have some respect.

Martenitsa

If you go to Sofia after March, you may see the trees decorated with bracelets made of red and white yarn. There are called Martenitsa, and are given to loved ones at the beginning of March. Those loved ones will then wear the bracelet until they see a spring blossom, swallow, or stork, at which point they will tie the bracelet to a tree. It’s a beautiful sight, and if you are so lucky as to have someone give you one, well, you’ve done good.

COMMUNISM

is still an iffy topic. Many locals simply don’t want to talk about it, and public displays of communist symbols are illegal. As a result, you will not see hammers and sickles on buildings– whatever still remains is either locked up or in a museum.

THE PRACTICAL STUFF

Getting around Sofia is easy. Public transit is pretty manageable, and if you can sound out where you’re going, people will happily help you find your destination.

Taxis are generally a no-go. If you must use a taxi, pay in cash, try to agree on a price up-front, and if they don’t let you do that, be very mindful of the price gauge. Taxis are very cheap so taxi drivers tend to be a little more trying when it comes to ripping off foreigners. Someone recently told me about an app called TaxiMe which works in Sofia, but I have not used it.

Try to stay in the city center. I always book through Booking.com, as I’ve had the best results with them, and I managed to find budget accommodation in a bustling area near the Sofia Synagogue. As a general rule, staying by the Serdika or NDK subway stations will probably give you the best results. **note: the Serdika bus station is NOT the Serdika subway station. The Serdika subway station area is more desirable.

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